Taming Silk Chiffon for Sheer Summer Delight

Tamed Chiffon Awaits - note how it is willing to even stand upright!

Wearing silk chiffon on a warm summer day can  be a sheer delight - pun intended!  But sewing with chiffon, well...that experience can be somewhat less enjoyable.

Silk is one of my absolute favorite fibers to sew, in all of its many forms.  It would be a shame to avoid silk chiffon simply because of its 'shifty reputation.'

My first experience sewing silk chiffon came shortly after graduating from college.  My best friend was getting married and since I would be in the wedding, I wanted something special to wear.  I found a gorgeous hand printed silk chiffon fabric that was so lovely and fine it practically floated on the air.  I wish I'd known then all the tips and tricks I know now!

First of all, you need an appropriate pattern. Chiffon (and all very drapey fabrics) should generally be made into garments with a great deal of ease - in other words, loose fitting.  Because the fabric lacks structure and will hang close to the  body regardless of size, it looks skimpy at best when cut and sewn into fitted garments.  Chiffon is at its best shown off with a loose, floaty style that does not cling or bind anywhere.

Secondly, tame your chiffon by using a liquid stabilizer if at all possible.  I hand wash all my chiffon fabrics to ensure they will be washable, and then I use PerfectSew, a liquid stabilizer (available at select Pacific Fabrics or Quality Sewing stores), to stabilize it during the entire construction process.  PerfectSew will transform  your shifty chiffon into the well-behaved, paper-like fabric you see in the photo above.  It's amazing stuff - it will make the chiffon easy to cut and sew and even machine embroider.

When sewing, use narrow or enclosed seams for the prettiest sheer looks.  A serger works great for rolled hems, as well as narrow three or two-thread seams.  I prefer to use French seams whenever possible, due to their good looks and strong character.  They do not work well for curved seams, however, so you will want to use a flat fell, bound, overcast, serged or similar technique to create a shapely armhole.

Finally, use quality tools - I like to say 'fine sewing means fine tools'! - fine, sharp needles (I prefer 70/10 Microtex), sharp cutting implements and fine, sharp pins.  Silk dulls needles and blades quickly so it's important to use a fresh needle when starting a project and change it immediately at the first sign (such as thread pulls/strikes) or sound (it will make a popping sound) of dullness.  Thread is also important.  Of course I prefer silk thread but high quality mercerized cotton ('silk finish') or polyester may also be  used. 

Stabilize your chiffon prior to cutting and sewing and you'll find a newfound friend in silk chiffon.

--Katrina

Comments

[Katrina Walker]

Carolyn--
My CD-ROM, "Sewing with Silk", demonstrates stabilizing chiffon with Perfect Sew. It does not specifically address machine embroidery with chiffon or organza.

However, I do have an article coming out this winter specifically about machine embroidery on chiffon. I don't think I am allowed to give any more details than that at this time.

This would make a great blog entry in the future. In the meantime, if you'd like the CD, you may purchase it from my website - katrinawalker.com. Feel free to also email me via the website if you have specific questions.

:)
--Katrina

[Carolyn Boland]

I heard about your techniques of embroidering on silk scarves and/or silk
organza. Is there a CD with the scarf info and directions? Thanks in
advance. Carolyn Boland

[Katrina]

Yes, the 'PerfectSew' washes out reasonably easy. I always rinse thoroughly just in case. I just finished a dupioni/chiffon blouse (see recent blog entry about clear elastic) and it rinsed out fine with just a quick hand wash in the sink. It makes all the difference when it comes to cutting and sewing chiffon.

[Linda Mickelberry]

Thank you for the above! One question: does the "Perfect Sew" wash out?

[Diana York]

Great information. Thank You